Does Wood Bead Jewelry Last? How It Wears and How to Care for It

A wood bead necklace has two great advantages and one rule. The advantages: it weighs almost nothing, so a six-strand collar can be worn all day, and it takes color and carving in a way metal and stone cannot. The rule: keep it dry. Follow that, and a well-made wood piece lasts decades. Ignore it, and the beads swell, dull and crack.

What the beads are

Zavaire's beaded necklaces are carved wood discs, often with horn, made in the Philippines. The wood is turned or hand-carved into discs and beads, sometimes left natural in cream, brown or near-black, sometimes dyed. Horn, usually from water buffalo, is carved into the clasps and sometimes into beads of its own; it is denser than wood, takes a high polish and has the translucence of a fingernail when held to light.

Both materials are natural, which means they respond to their environment. That is the whole story of caring for them.

What harms wood and horn

Water. Wood absorbs it and swells; when it dries, it can shrink unevenly and crack. Horn is more resistant but will dull and can warp. Take pieces off before swimming, showering, washing dishes and heavy rain. Sweat in normal amounts is fine; wipe the piece with a dry cloth after a hot day.

Sun and heat. Prolonged direct sun fades dyed wood and can dry natural wood until it splits. A car dashboard in summer is the worst place a wood necklace can be. Store it indoors, out of a sunny window.

Perfume, hairspray and lotion. These leave a film on porous surfaces that dulls the finish and attracts dust. Put jewelry on last, after everything else has dried.

Chemicals. No polish, no cleaner, no dip. Wood and horn are finished with wax or oil, and cleaners strip it.

How it ages

Well-kept wood develops a soft sheen from handling, the same way a wooden tool handle does. Natural tones deepen slightly. Dyed pieces hold their color for years out of the sun. Horn keeps its polish and may show fine surface lines with wear, which is normal. None of this is damage; it is the material settling in. The Cream Wood Disc Multi-Strand Bib Necklace after a year of wear looks like a piece that has been worn, which is the point.

The routine

• After wearing: wipe with a soft dry cloth. That is all.
• Monthly, if you like: a tiny amount of beeswax or a wood-safe oil on a cloth, rubbed in and buffed off, keeps natural wood from drying. Skip this on dyed or painted beads.
• Storage: flat or loosely coiled, in a drawer or pouch, away from sun and heat. Multi-strand pieces tangle less if stored flat with the clasp closed.
• Travel: wood is the ideal travel material because it cannot scratch anything and nothing scratches it easily. Wrap it in a scarf and go.

Cords and clasps

The cord is usually the first thing to show wear on any beaded piece, not the beads. Zavaire's wood pieces are strung on strong thread or cord and close with a carved horn hook or a simple knot-and-loop. If a cord frays after years of wear, a jeweler can restring the beads in an hour. Keep the piece from snagging on knits and bag straps and the cord outlasts most fashion.

Wood versus other bead materials

Against glass: wood is lighter and warmer in tone, glass is brighter and heavier. Against stone: wood is a fraction of the weight and takes carving, stone takes polish. Against textile beads, like the kantha pieces: both are light; wood gives solid color and shine, textile gives pattern. Most people who own one full wood collar find they reach for it more than for heavier pieces, simply because it is easy.