The black discs stacked along the lower arc are vulcanite — hardened rubber, cut and strung as beads across West African trade routes as a lighter, more wearable stand-in for amber. It takes a polish but stays matte at the edges, which is where the contrast with the polished gold comes from.
The design borrows that stacked-disc silhouette and rebuilds it as a modern hoop, pairing the matte rubber with a faceted brown glass bead set in a plain gold bracket. It reads as a conversation between two bead traditions rather than a reproduction of any single piece.
Each pair starts as a length of gold-plated brass wire, hand-formed into a hoop. The vulcanite discs are strung individually and packed flush along the lower arc; a separate bracket is fitted with the glass bead and small brass cube spacers before being joined to the hoop. Assembled by hand in the USA.